
Then you went off to buy and bring back another bottle. If you emptied the bottle, the others laughed good-naturedly and said things I couldn’t quite understand. You passed the glass to the next person, then the bottle. We began a drinking ritual that went something like this: First you were handed the glass, and you flicked out the foam. Come here.” We stood together in a clump, watching the parade of dancers, absorbing the raucous music, and sharing a liter of local beer with one small glass. A group of young adults my age spotted me and quickly took me in.

The Jauja Province held the festival in a field to honor the province’s patron saints-the martyrs Fabian and Sebastian.Ĭarlos was so involved in the festivities-dancing, costume contests, and games-that I was left to wander the field alone.

My host, Carlos, and I were the same age, and he took me to a festival called Tunantada. I visited Peru in January 1997, graciously hosted by a family in Callao.
